Stopping in Chitwan for a "safari" was a treat. The area is home to heaps of wildlife that we tried to find by foot, on elephant back and by jeep. Highlights included lots of hikes, many rhinos, great sunsets, and nights filled with stars and loud jungle sounds. Crocs, wild boar, spotted deer, a sloth beer, a big snake, peacocks, insects and birds galore - and one tough looking, 30-yr old, one-eared rhino. I bet he's still sore from that fight. The elephant bathing was touristy fun but the elephant riding was unpleasant: a rough ride for us and cruel coercion (a cane and a metal spike) to make our elephant 'behave'.