No, those are not my legs. They are Irish, in fact, a victim of the persistent and ravenous jungle mosquitoes. Reaching Teyuna means mud - mud so thick that only Glastonbury Fest '07 can compete. At any moment, I thought I was going to slip then slide down a long mud shute and land between Kathleen Turner's legs. Add the bugs, hot sun and multiple waist-deep river crossings. The black dog that followed us had more trouble with the rivers. Several indigenous groups still live in the mountains, subsisting in very basic conditions. The men chew coca leaves 24/7 while the girls and young women still endure other ills, including polygamy and arranged 'marriages' at the age of 12.