At 2400m, this cold and rainy town is famous for its tea plantations, spectacular views and as a gateway to Sikkim and the eastern Himalayas. Tenzing Norquay, the Nepali Sherpa who first conquered Everest, sought climbing work at the Planter's Club here. (“Sherpa”, by the way, refers to an ethnic group not an occupation.) Built on a steep slope, Darjeeling is an odd mix of local and foreign tourists, hotels and posh private schools. Unfortunately, it is still full of garbage, open sewers, stray dogs, nasty smells and lousy roads. We had little luck with the myriad of attractions: the vast panorama that stretches from Khangchendzonga (8598m), to Everest (8848), to Lhotse (8501) and Makalu (8475) was obscured by mist; the tea plantation was closed, while the tiger zoo, the Everest museum and alpine railway were all on strike. “Nothing works here. Nothing. Nothing in India.”, mused Miranda.
