I had no idea what to expect in Laos. I had heard good reports: a much subdued tourist scene, rural, less developed and less traveled. Thailand was far too busy for me; I wanted an escape. The Mekong River was the start: it rises in China and partially forms the Thai-Lao border in the north of both countries. Here, you can take a two-day 'slow boat' downstream to the old Lao capital city of Luang Prabang. The river disappointed: I had imagined a shoreline crowded with jungle and impenetrable forest, a place where Col. Kurtz could get lost - a "Heart of Darkness" kinda place. Not so much. The river was brown with mud and the shore was dotted with occasional villages and accompanying cultivation. Still, it was a nice trip and I met some great travellers along the way.