Friday, 23 November 2007

Oman


The Sultan's Palace in Muscat.

If Yemen is tops with its amazingly friendly people, Oman would be a close second. Economically, however, the two countries could not be more different. With a fantastic road system, advanced infrastructure, nice neighborhoods and no shortage of shopping malls, Oman is also a pretty place. The highways and streets are lined with trees, flower beds and immaculate landscaping. Of course, oil helps. Oman produces 900,000 barrels per day, just enough to keep out of politically charged OPEC. The Omanis are then free to stay friends with whomever they please: the US, Canada, the UK and India.

The population here is also quite fascinating. A huge expatriate community, mainly from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh do all the menial and laborious jobs. Still, there is a mutual respect between the two groups. From what I saw, the Omanis were a tremendously nice and generous people; the expats were similarly friendly. Since costs are high, I found myself traveling in the same shared taxis and mini-vans and eating in the same restaurants used as the Indian expats. Super people.

A type of economic miracle happened in Oman in 1970. Previously a backwater, the state had only 10km of paved road and few schools and hospitals. Now Muscat has enough leftover cash for fountains, whimsical statues and a giant decorative incence burner in the harbor. It is the Singapore of Arabia. The fish market in Muscat still shows the 'old' side of the country. Each day, the catch is displayed in a large market. Families choose their fish, squid, shark, octopus, Nemo-types, etc., and then take them over to another area where they are scaled, cleaned, gutted, de-tailed, de-headed and even filleted. It is tough, tough work and the guys who do this, some with heavy tools for the tougher fish, must ache and stink by the end of each morning.


Friday prayers at the mosque in Nizwa.


Jebel Shams, the Grand Canyon of Oman.

I was lucky enough to meet one generous Omani family when I was trying to reach Jebel Shams, a huge canyon area. I got a great tour of the countryside, was invited home for coffee, oranges and dates and then was given a lift all the way back to Muscat. A tremendous day. The Omanis are extremely traditional and particularly fond of their Sultan, who has provided leadership and prosperity. One of his interesting decrees was to limit dowries and weddings to a specified amount, to stop spiraling debt from such occasions.


Two guys goof around in the fish market, Muscat.

All those pretty reef fish are also for sale.



My new friends in Al-Hamra.