Someone New Under The Sun

Bogota, Colombia (2400m)

2008-09-11T23:32:00.003+02:00

At this height, Bogota is one chilly city but the funky neighborhoods, young students and cool museums make it a great stop. Colombia is the home of Fernando Botero, a wonderful painter and sculptor who tends to portray his subjects a tad on the chubby side. His 'Mona Lisa' is below.

Pablo Escobar

2008-09-10T23:43:00.001+02:00

Though a scenic, fun and mainly peaceful country, Colombia is still tarnished by its history of violence, particularly between the Cali and Medellin cocaine cartels. Known as 'El Patron', Pablo Escobar was one of the worst instigators of gun crime, assassinations and extreme violence. He was finally imprisoned but escaped in 1992. An elite police squad tracked him down 499 days later; he never saw day 500. Now if the country could only eliminate FARC.

Barichara, Colombia

2008-09-08T23:01:00.005+02:00

From the small town of Barichara there is a sweet country walk to the tiny village of Guane. Superb sites.

San Gil, Colombia

2008-09-07T20:29:00.005+02:00

Rafting is really for wimps who have never learned to white-water kayak. It is so perfect for me. A trip on the Rio Suarez was crazy. With names like the Devil's Throat and Labyrinth 1&2, the class IV and V+ rapids were explosive and heart-stopping.

Check out the trip here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGDatODUecQ

La Ciudad Perdida, Colombia

2008-09-01T19:28:00.005+02:00

Fantastic. One of the highlights of Colombia is the 5-day hike to 'the Lost City', an ancient stone site hidden in the jungle-covered mountains. Here lies the remains of Teyuna, a wildly impressive terraced settlement, built on steep ground above the Buritaca River. From the river's edge to the entrance is a 1200-stair climb, straight up. Founded in AD800, Teyuna has about 170 terraces, a network of tiled paths and many plazas. Each staircase and platform was meticulously constructed using tons of rock and cut stone and the stonework was cleverly designed to mitigate erosion from the region's heavy rain.

La Ciudad Perdida 2, Colombia

2008-08-31T21:27:00.003+02:00

No, those are not my legs. They are Irish, in fact, a victim of the persistent and ravenous jungle mosquitoes. Reaching Teyuna means mud - mud so thick that only Glastonbury Fest '07 can compete. At any moment, I thought I was going to slip then slide down a long mud shute and land between Kathleen Turner's legs. Add the bugs, hot sun and multiple waist-deep river crossings. The black dog that followed us had more trouble with the rivers. Several indigenous groups still live in the mountains, subsisting in very basic conditions. The men chew coca leaves 24/7 while the girls and young women still endure other ills, including polygamy and arranged 'marriages' at the age of 12.

Cartagena de Indias, Colombia

2008-08-22T21:03:00.007+03:00

If you loved 80's Friday night TV then you may remember Tubbs & Crockett cruising to Cartagena to kick some smack-smuggler's butt while in the background a soulful Phil Colins belted out 'I Don't Care Anymore'. The ugly days of cocaine cartels are long gone and, today, Cartagena is one of South America's nicest cities.

Founded in 1533 to warehouse Spanish loot from the interior, it was a favorite target of French and British pirates. Now tourists flock to its beaches and pristine colonial streets. At night, plazas and terraces fill with visitors while tree-lined parks host impromptu chess matches. It is a glorious place.

Crossing to Colombia

2008-08-20T06:28:00.005+03:00

Fancy driving to South America? Well the Pan American Hwy is not so Pan American: there is no road link between Central & South America. About 200km of inhospitable jungle, swamp and banditos separate Panama and Colombia. Known as the Darien Gap, Scotland bet the farm on colonizing the region in 1698; the ensuing financial ruin forced its amalgamation with England 9 years later. A National Geographic expedition actually did drive the Gap in 1961 but no one since.

Bugs and Life: Central America

2008-08-19T02:28:00.006+03:00

In China, it was rare to see any bugs, never mind any wildlife: it was as if they had all been vacuumed up and eaten. Hmm... Central America was the opposite. Despite widespread deforestation for the (asinine) ranching of cattle, the region was full of cool bugs and critters. The climate is so moist and diverse that grass even grows thick on the overhead power lines.

Puerto Lindo, Panama

2008-08-17T18:28:00.004+03:00

Dame tu dinero o te voy a matar! DAME TU DINERO O TE VOY A MATAR!

Give me your money or I'm going to kill you!

Lucky I didn't know enough Spanish to understand what he was shouting. On a dark Sunday night, on a quiet country road, the town's cocaine addict had a shot at relieving me and my pal, Matt, of our money. A strong, shirtless black guy, he came out of nowhere, held what we thought was a machete and pulled me to the ground. He got nothing in the end, 'cept arrested.

'Lindo' is the Spanish word for lovely or pretty. For me, not so much.

The Joy of Cheap Sleeps

2008-08-16T20:46:00.007+03:00

To travel cheaply is to travel rough: local buses, basic restaurants, cheap hostels and and simple hotels where quality can vary to the extreme. The best are spotlessly clean, quaint and comfy and might include a bathroom, hot water, air-con, a view, a patio, hammocks, a softish mattress, drinking water, a swimming pool or maybe a TV.

Sure, sure. More often, its shared dorms with noisy, stinky boys and messy girls, cold water showers, no toilet seat, 4am roosters, 5am barking dogs, 6am transport trucks, a dangerously old ceiling fan, and dirty bathrooms.

My worst room (so far) was in Panama. It looked OK to start then I found mouse droppings under the bed that attracted many large, sinfully ugly cockroaches. The bathroom was infested with mosquitoes and the shower, tap and toilet all spurted thick, black water. At night, the room filled with mossies and boom boom music from the neighbor next door. The cost: an outrageous $12.

Portobelo, Panama

2008-08-15T18:45:00.005+03:00

Columbus stopped here in 1502 and for nearly 200 years it was the main Spanish port on the Caribbean coast, handling tons of gold, silver and precious cargo. Sir Francis Drake died nearby (1595) and many pirates had various success at sacking it. Today, the canons and thick fort walls remain but the rest of Portobelo is a desperate hovel. An historic gem otherwise, the garbage-lined streets, burning diapers, emaciated dogs, widespread poverty and high unemployment make it tough to stay the night. I did anyway. Yikes.

Traveling Solo Again

2008-08-14T18:23:00.005+03:00

After months on the road together, Miranda took leave of this crazy world of travel and returned to Canada for work. It was a sad day for both of us. With a partner in crime, you develop routines and patterns: simple things like one guards the packs while the other finds the next bus, a new hotel, a bank or a place to eat. Going solo is a completely different experience. Buen viaje y buena suerte, BLP.

Panama City, Panama

2008-08-13T19:28:00.002+03:00

Home of the Panama Canal and a popular 'flag of convenience', Panama once housed Col. Manuel Noriega, the shah of Iran and guests of 'Survivor: Pearl Islands.' What a legacy. The city is an interesting mix of classic colonial architecture and modern, gleaming skyscrappers.

The country is small but the history fascinating. After decades of unrest, Jimmy Carter authorized the return of the US Canal Zone in 1999. Meanwhile, the goofball Noriega took power, declaring war on the US in 1989, and prompting a swift US invasion. He is still in the clinker in Florida.

'Banana Republics'

2008-08-10T20:13:00.005+03:00

Transformed into Chiquita Brands in 1980, the former United Fruit Company caused much chaos and grief in Central America. Once the largest employer here, the company owned huge tracts of land to supply bananas and pineapples to the US and Europe. Its political power was immense. It bribed politicians, treated workers ruthlessly and arranged the 1954 US-backed coup in Guatemala. A nasty legacy for Miss Chiquita Banana.

Bocas del Toro, Panama

2008-08-08T18:11:00.003+03:00

Still a central base for one of Chiquita's banana operations, Bocas is a sweet mix of warm ocean and Afro-Caribbean charm, music and food. The weather can be intense with bucketing rain and "one-count" thunderstorms. Lightening strikes hit almost directly overhead; one-count later, deafening thunder shakes you silly. Cool.

Cahuita, Costa Rica

2008-08-05T01:47:00.008+03:00

Cahuita was my favorite stop in Costa Rica: a sleepy seaside village with a beautiful beach and an impressive drumming troupe. One night was little different though. I noticed a pack of excited dogs down one dirt track, likely attacking another dog. I hurled some rocks and walked over to see. The pack scattered, leaving the victim in the grass, a seemingly small mound of brown fur. I called to her, hoping she would scatter too but she just shifted so very slowly. I turned to leave, angry and frustrated that I could do little for this helpless lump; the dogs would return and kill her. But I couldn't sanction that scene. Closer this time, the fur took shape: one bent leg, a paw and a few long, curved claws. Son of a bitch, this was sloth.

What the hell? Now what? Would any anyone here care enough to help? I left Miranda on guard and came back with the local police. One young cop was impressive: he lifted the animal, checking her for wounds. Terrified, in pain and exhausted, the sloth's mouth gaped open and her brown eyes glared back at us. Her face was so unusual, hairless, soft and wrinkled, with a long rounded snout. A few phone calls and some anxious waiting: a local sloth sanctuary would take delivery of our jungle girl. The same young cop lifted her into the pick-up, her long body stretched to the ground. Off they drove.

She was, in fact, a very young female Choloepus: a two-fingered sloth.
She died on route.

Footage of two younger versions at the Aviarios sanctuary is here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_1t51c-d4Y

Riding High

2008-07-30T05:53:00.004+03:00

Fancy buses? Miss riding around in your old school bus? Well, chances are, it retired to Nicaragua. Here you can experience those green vinyl seats all over again. Called 'chicken buses' for the occasional onboard poultry, these beasts ply all the major routes. They're cheap, they stop anywhere and they are always pimped with Latino music and religious motifs. Magic.

San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

2008-07-27T01:43:00.002+03:00

Que bonito! A lovely spot on the Pacific, San Juan del Sur is all about beaches, surfing, hermit crabs, warm evenings and sunsets.

The Sandinistas, Nicaragua

2008-07-24T15:52:00.007+03:00

Save for Costa Rica, the politics in Central America have had an ugly pattern. Due to skewed land ownership, corruption and US interference, much of the region has suffered from civil war and grinding poverty. Ruled by the harsh, kleptocratic Samoza regime, Nicaraguans fought back, starting with Augusto Sandino in the 1920s. In July 1979, the Sandinistas finally overthrew the Samoza family. We were near Managua for the 29th anniversary celebrations. Que fiesta!

Ronald Reagan secretly funded anti-Sandinista guerrillas in the 1980s, culminating in the Iran-Contra scandal. It gave Americans, and the world, vivid insight into the startling power of Colonel Oliver North, most notably his tactical skill in hiring his exquisite and unbelievably named secretary, Fawn Hall.

Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua

2008-07-23T01:52:00.005+03:00

Formed by two ancient volcanoes and in the middle of massive Lake Nicaragua, Ometepe is a fabulous island to explore. It was here, though, that I fell out of my infallibility tree, stumbling on a morning run, my arms and legs nicely etched with the dark volcanic rock and soil.

Captain Morgan

2008-07-22T01:13:00.004+03:00

Got a little Captain in you? Well, Sir Henry Morgan was a real pirate, a Welsh one at that, and a major pain-in-the-butt for Spain. As conquistadors looted Central America and Peru, tons of gold, silver and jewels were amassed in coastal warehouses before being the trip to Spain. Privateers like Morgan attacked these ports, wreaking havoc. In 1643, he plundered Trujillo (Honduras); in 1665, he leveled Grenada (Nicaragua); in 1668, he destroyed Portobelo (Panama); and, in 1672, he marched overland to sack Panama Viejo. Located far from the Caribbean and on a massive inland lake, Grenada was a tough one; Morgan had to sail his fleet up the Rio San Juan and cross Lake Nicaragua.

Knighted in 1674, the admiral retired to the debauchery of Port Royal, Jamaica, and died in 1688, a very wealthy man.

Grenada, Nicaragua

2008-07-21T00:06:00.005+03:00

Nicaragua was one of my favorite countries and Grenada one of my favorite towns. Full of beautiful colonial buildings, churches, narrow streets and fun people, it is also home to 500 years of history.

Christopher Columbus and the Conquistadors

2008-07-20T00:20:00.005+03:00

Not the most enlightened human but an outstanding navigator, Columbus (a.k.a. Cristobal Colon) made four voyages to this region. Initially rebuffed by Portugal (oops!), Italy's Columbus explored the Caribbean and Central & South American coastline, claiming it all for Spain. Here, he found the soon-to-be-doomed 'Indians' wearing large amounts of gold.

In the early 1500s, the conquistadors followed: looting, destroying and colonizing the region. This ugly bunch of Spaniards were mostly young, illiterate criminals, searching for get-rich schemes. They formed independent factions, occasionally fighting each other. One of the meanest, Pedro de Alvarado, burnt indigenous captives alive or fed them to the dogs, shocking even Hernan Cortes, himself no nice guy.

Columbus remains a controversial figure but his name is absolutely everywhere: Columbus, OH, GA, IN, MS & WI; Columbia, SC, MD & MO; Washington D.C. (District of Columbia); Columbia Univ.; the country of Colombia; the city of Colon, Panama; Colombo, capital of Sri Lanka. Even British Columbia was named by Queen Victoria after the Columbia River, which was named after a ship, which was named after Columbus. Too bad, really.

Copan Ruinas, Honduras

2008-07-14T23:56:00.005+03:00

A great town next to another set of beautiful Mayan ruins, Copan comes complete with cobblestone streets, cheap cigars, magnificent ceiba trees, howler monkeys and macaws.

Antigua, Guatemala

2008-07-10T21:57:00.002+03:00

The spiffy colonial town of Antigua was alright but the nearby Pacaya volcano was fantastic. There aren't many places where you can get within a few feet of molten red lava.

Lanquin, Guatemala

2008-07-04T21:42:00.003+03:00

Manners in Guatemala are impeccable. People always greet each other on the street, in stores, in restaurants or on buses. It is friendly, courteous, genuine and fun. In rural areas, the men routinely wear cowboy hats, gumboots and carry a machete: work means long, hard hours of clearing brush, trees and grass for farming. Corn is a vital staple here and the Maya considered it sacred; too bad the tortillas all tasted a bit funny.

Tikal, Guatemala

2008-07-02T01:59:00.002+03:00

These guys had it together. Tikal is gorgeous. The largest of many impressive Maya 'cities' in the Mexico-Guatemala frontier, Tikal was built between 300BC and 900AD. A major cultural and population centre, it was mysteriously abandoned by 1100. It was "re-discovered" in 1848 and re-stored in the 1950s onward. The site is huge, stretching for miles with dozens of temples and structures still obscured by thick jungle (and mosquitoes).

Flores, Guatemala

2008-07-01T20:09:00.003+03:00

There is a fun story about Flores. In 1525, the Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes stopped here on his way to Honduras. "He left behind a lame horse, which the Itzaes fed on flowers and turkey stew. When it died, the Itzaes made a statue of it which, by the time a couple of Spanish friars visited in 1618, was being worshiped as a manifestation of the rain god Chac. Offerings were made to it and, later, to the lake, to keep the lake waters from rising too high." Then the Catholic church got involved, I'm sure...

Belize City, Belize

2008-06-30T01:45:00.005+03:00

Run. Run quick.
I imagined Belize to be quite the paradise - a version of Bermuda with sophisticated and pricey eco-tourism. The coast may be nice but it's capital is one scary, seriously expensive, barb-wired dump.

Tulum, Mexico

2008-06-28T01:30:00.005+03:00

What a change from China. A beautiful blue ocean and Maya ruins to boot, Tulum deserves a nice long visit. Unfortunately, it isn't so cheap.

China

2008-06-26T22:15:00.006+03:00

I had expected a better organized version of India but what I got was closer to the United States: 6-lane highways, skyscraper filled cities, new bridges, dams and railways, nice hotels, shopping malls and bumper-to-bumper traffic. 30% of the world's steel production and nearly 50% of the world's concrete production is gulped down here. Everywhere you look the building boom is stunning.

Like the Germans and Vietnamese, the Chinese hold themselves to a higher standard. The people are resilient, proud and fun and their cities are modern and clean; traveling here is easy and comfortable. The biggest challenge: ordering vegetarian food; as the saying goes, "the southern Chinese will eat anything with four legs except for the table."

The Olympics

2008-06-25T21:07:00.003+03:00

How successful were the Beijing Olympics? No idea. I can tell you, however, that my quite-OK double-room-with-shared-bath cost $26/night; during the games, the rate was to be $260/night. The government already had the cheering policy well designed: clap twice, give the thumbs-up, clap twice more and punch the air with both arms. Apparently, this is in-line with international sporting cheers. Visitors will be surprised to find few people here speak any English which can be a challenge. Still, if you need just one reason to visit, it is the cheap beer. A yummy, cold 600ml bottle costs only $0.50 and the more you drink, the more colorful and culturally complex China becomes. A definite win-win.

Beijing, China

2008-06-22T23:09:00.003+03:00

All was quiet in Tiananmen Square but other parts of the country were restless. Tibet was closed and off-limits after several protests. The Chinese remain baffled, apparently, at the ingratitude of Tibetans and the West's perspective. Tibet was actually a Chinese colony as far back as 1751. Before the 1950 Chinese 're-occupation', Tibet was an impoverished nation ruled by a contemptuous elite who virtually enslaved the population in a system of feudal serfdom. Roads, schools, health care, railways, factories and a tourist industry have all been developed by Beijing. Still, few will forgive China's destruction of Tibetan culture and heritage.

Translators Needed

2008-06-21T17:02:00.002+03:00

Everyone who visits China sees a fun share of mulched English signs, menus and packaging. It is a weird phenomenon: odd-ball text is constantly published without any proofing or advice from English speakers.

Sichuan Earthquake

2008-06-20T16:07:00.002+03:00

Two events dominated our time in China: the olympic torch world tour and the government's relief efforts after the Sichuan earthquake. The propaganda for both was heavy, appearing on TV screens everywhere. Almost 70,000 people died in the quake, including a horrific number of children in poorly built schoolrooms. Heart-wrenching photos showed inconsolable parents holding each other and cradling their dead children. Next to destroyed schools, children's backpacks were arranged in neat lines, brightly colored and adorned with cartoons, never to be worn again. Unbelievably sad.

Mao is on the Money

2008-06-18T15:36:00.002+03:00

You may notice a subtle trend here.

For such a horrible leader, Mao is still highly revered in China. He ruled from 1949-1976 and orchestrated heaps of disastrous policies including the Great Leap Forward (it wasn't) and the 10-year Cultural Revolution that saw the destruction of most of the country's heritage. Ironically, his influential wife was even more awful.

The official party line is “that Mao was 70% right and just 30% wrong in his leadership of the country." I wish 'the party' had marked my calculus exams.

Dali & Lijiang, Yunnan, China

2008-06-16T15:26:00.002+03:00

Fun, fun. With re-built historic centres and a rural setting, both Dali and Lijiang are visitor favorites for foreigners and Chinese alike. Sure they're a bit contrived but they're quaint enough.

Kunming, Yunnan, China

2008-06-13T14:58:00.003+03:00

The navy has always had odd names for parts of its ships. I served on one destroyer where the main passageway was called "Burma Road": it was the central area for 'storing' the ship with food and supplies. The original Burma Road was a 1000km wretched overland route used by the allies in WWII to supply Chiang Kai-shek's Chinese forces against the Japanese. The road stretched from the jungles of Burma to the mountains of China, terminating in the dusty backwater of Kunming. After the Japanese cut this line and occupied Burma, allied pilots had to fly in supplies, "crossing the hump" - a set of 5000m frontier peaks.

Today, Kunming is a massive commercial city, bustling with people and traffic, industry and shopping malls. It is hard to imagine its past; there is, however, one hostel here with an interesting name: "The Hump".

Learn to Speak Mandarin

2008-06-10T06:02:00.002+03:00

To me, Mandarin is a complex and mysterious language. While there are over 56,000 Chinese characters, a well-educated person will know about 6000 to 8000. To read a newspaper you need to know 2000-3000 characters. Each character actually represents a spoken sound or a syllable and most words are two or more characters stuck together. Despite the introduction of 'simplified' characters, my attempt at writing this artistic script was frustrating. 'Fried rice' and 'stir-fried veggies' take forever to construct. The spoken language is apparently simple since there are no verb tenses, no plurals, and no articles, but just try to pronounce the vast array of tones. No one in China understood any of the Mandarin that I muttered.

Here's one saying to practice - with all accents omitted:
"Mama qi ma, ma man, mama ma ma."
(Mother rides a horse. The horse is slow. Mother scolds the horse.)

Now you're cookin'.

Yangshuo and Guilin, Yunnan, China

2008-06-08T02:11:00.007+03:00

A pretty town with towering limestone karsts, thick greenery and a lovely river, Yangshuo is a fun town that sees many foreigners but much larger crowds of Chinese tourists. It is overly visited and wholly contrived but the food is good. China has only so many tourist attractions but a huge population of young earners who want to enjoy themselves. Inflated prices, heavy rain and persistent street vendors are par for the course here. Further north, many also visit an impressive system of terraced rice paddies that seem to climb forever.

Quangzhou, Guangdong, China

2008-06-05T00:16:00.003+03:00

Not my photo.

Quangzhou was quite the shock. Only a few hours from Hong Kong, I expected slums and smog, snarled traffic and a chaotic city. Instead, we found impressive parks and landscaping, riverfront walking paths and night tennis, towering skyscrapers and a super subway system.

There is a dark side though: the city's Qingting Market is a heinous yet very popular place to buy live animals for the dinner table. Choices include sparrows, kittens, rabbits, puppies, monkeys, snakes, turtles, and, apparently, leopards. The animals are uncared for and in serious distress. An ugly scene.

The Republic of Nepal

2008-06-01T22:26:00.005+03:00

Nepal went through some radical changes while we were there. A previously-terrorist Maoist group formed the government and de-throned the highly unpopular king. The 239-yr old Hindu monarchy was abolished, ending its history of political interference.
Popular protest is common in Nepal: our bus was stopped for 3 hours in the searing heat while a group of school kids blocked the highway to protest a lack of books. Hundreds of vehicles filled with thousands of Nepalis were kept waiting by kids in pink school shirts. Just imagine trying to stop truckers in North America with a few rocks on the road. The worst sufferers were the stalled truckloads of water buffalo, cruelly tied together and held down with nostril rings, unable to move.

Tiger Tips, Chitwan Nat'l Park, Nepal

2008-05-25T21:17:00.002+03:00

Based on personal experience, here are some tips on handling a tiger:

Find yourself a tiger. Mine was an orphan 'cause his mama was a man-eater.
As your tiger's tail flicks tantalizing close, stick your fingers through the cage to try to touch it.
When your guide suggests that using a small stick may be a 'smarter' move, try that.
When Martin, your fellow traveler, also tries for the tail, you lose interest and move to the other corner for a better view.
Watch as the tiger gets up & walks to your corner. Admire its lean, sleek movement.
Jump backwards, astonishingly fast, when your tiger belts out a massive roar.
Slink back to the jeep, nervously laughing about how a little stick can have such a strong impact.

Chitwan National Park, Nepal

2008-05-24T22:13:00.004+03:00

Stopping in Chitwan for a "safari" was a treat. The area is home to heaps of wildlife that we tried to find by foot, on elephant back and by jeep. Highlights included lots of hikes, many rhinos, great sunsets, and nights filled with stars and loud jungle sounds. Crocs, wild boar, spotted deer, a sloth beer, a big snake, peacocks, insects and birds galore - and one tough looking, 30-yr old, one-eared rhino. I bet he's still sore from that fight. The elephant bathing was touristy fun but the elephant riding was unpleasant: a rough ride for us and cruel coercion (a cane and a metal spike) to make our elephant 'behave'.

Annapurna Trek - Pt. III

2008-05-20T23:45:00.001+03:00

It was sad to descend from the Thorung-La Pass. Soon we were in villages with road access, motorbikes, jeeps and Hindu temples. The scenery is still stunning but the magic on this side of the Annapurnas is diminishing, unless you hike north again, up the heavily restricted Mustang Valley. Five nights later, we were on a hell bus ride to beautiful Pokhara.

Thorung-La Pass, Annapurna Trek

2008-05-18T20:20:00.008+03:00

Like sleep? Me too. Unfortunately, above 3000m means you don't get much. The thinner air makes hiking harder and more tiring and it makes your lungs seek more oxygen all day & all night. Plus, you have really weird dreams. Altitude not only makes you less thirsty but also makes you pee more: a double hit. And it causes gas. So the scenery is amazing but the effort required to hike is much greater. At one point, around 4000m, we had to run across a 150m section, with full packs, to avoid rocks and boulders that were whizzing down the slope. It was nasty.

On May 18, we reached our 'summit', the Thorung-La Pass at 5416m. It was Day 11 and definitely the toughest one so far. What a relief. I was ecstatic.

Cordyseps Worm, Annapurna Trek

2008-05-16T23:59:00.005+03:00

This is a weird one. Around the tiny village of Yak Kharka (4100m), dozens of lowland Nepalis flock here, set-up camp and venture out to make their fortune. Above the tree line and in the freezing cold, single men and ill-equipped families come in search of the illusive worms infected with the cordyceps sinensis fungus. Found only at high altitude, the worms are a prized and valuable medicinal ingredient in, well, you guessed it, China! A few weeks later, we saw the same worms for sale at a 'pharmacy' in Chongqing.

Annapurna Trek - Pt.II

2008-05-15T05:20:00.001+03:00

Porters: Annapurna Trek, Nepal

2008-05-14T23:23:00.000+03:00

While trekkers happily wonder the Annapurna range, hired porters can be seen carrying back-breaking loads along grueling tracks. For centuries, low-skilled laborers have been paid pitiful wages to lug sacks of food, mattresses, beer, tin roofing, and so on. Donkey trains are much more common these days. Bells clanking and ears twitching, the donkeys are a fun addition to the mountain scene, crossing suspension bridges and narrow paths with ease. Unfortunately, many animals are overloaded and ill-treated, with open sores and worn hooves.

Tibetan Buddhism, Annapurna Trek

2008-05-11T21:35:00.003+03:00

Why all the prayer flags? Trekking this circuit means passing countless Buddhist shrines decked in colorful prayer flags, 'mani walls' loaded with inscribed stones, and countless prayer wheels, large and small. Each, in fact, contains the printed prayer chant "Om mani padme hum", which basically pays homage to Buddha. Worshipers believe that the more often this magical phrase is recited, the more protection from evil will be received. You may have heard the chant in yoga class: me, not so much. As the flags flutter and the prayer wheels spin, this mantra is spread far and wide: the wind releases the power. Throughout the 'Tibetan' areas of Nepal, Buddhist values and culture make a unique and interesting impression.

Annapurna Trek - Pt.I

2008-05-10T00:19:00.008+03:00

A "life-altering experience" is how one fellow traveler described this circular trek. With monsoon rains due any week, we set off on this 15-day adventure and all went well. Starting at 800m and cresting at 5400m, you quickly leave 'civilization' behind: no roads, no cars, no cell phones, no TV, no noise. An ancient trade route, the trek winds through stunning scenery and dizzying heights, past dozens of quaint stone villages filled with friendly faces. You end each day in the village of your choice, at one of many guesthouses; all serve delicious meals and have decent rooms. It is so good.

Kathmandu, Nepal

2008-05-07T22:50:00.001+03:00

What a paradise! Although many travelers find KTM a bit rough, it is delightful when compared to any city in India. It has great food, comfy hotels, a pretty skyline, and cool historical sights. You do have to ignore the horrendous traffic jams and the occasional gang of glue-sniffing street kids though. Every second shop in the tourist area sells trekking gear with a super selection of fake North Face, Arcteryx, Columbia, Mtn Hardware, Patagonia, etc. We rushed around to prep for our trek, buying permits, hiking boots, fleece-everything, extra socks and rented sleeping bags.

Amritsar, Punjab, India

2008-05-03T01:24:00.001+03:00

Home to the Golden Temple and centre of the Sikh religion, Amritsar absolutely teems with Sikh pilgrims and worshippers who flood the temple day and night, often sleeping on the white marble terraces or in the free hostels nearby. Though welcome, foreigners are an oddity in Amritsar: you are continuously stared at by curious Sikhs - whether walking on the street, at the temple itself or in local restaurants. It is unnerving.

A highly inclusive religion, Sikhs welcome non-Sikhs with free accommodation and free communal meals in Amritsar. It is a powerful religion with unyielding beliefs and a history of militancy and martyrdom. Khalsa is one fundamental: a belief in a chosen race of soldier saints who abide by strict codes of moral conduct and engage in a crusade for righteousness. It was easy to find bullet holes marking the 1984 siege by Indira Ghandi's troops. Amritsar is also the site of the Jallianwala Bagh, where in 1919 British troops slaughtered hundreds of unarmed protesters, sparking Mahatma Ghandi's civil disobedience.

Jodhpur & Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India

2008-05-01T00:38:00.002+03:00

This is the famed desert land of obscenely wealthy maharajas and maharanis: grand forts, castles and palaces; an inhospitable area populated by feared warriors, the turban-wearing Hindu Rajputs. Here camel trains criss-crossed the desert empire, nobleman homes were painted blue and Rajput maharajas enjoyed dozens of doting wives: all occasionally had to face jauhar, ritual mass suicide by immolation when military defeat was inevitable.

Rajasthan is many travelers' favorite area in north India; it is hot, dusty and fascinating to explore. The heat was unbelievable, reaching 45 degrees one afternoon. On average, I drank 6 liters of water each day. The birthplace of baggy 'jodhpur' trousers, it is still home to unique fabrics and woven tapestries.

Easy India

2008-04-27T00:21:00.005+03:00

Is India all hard? It doesn't have to be: with a chunk of cash, a tourist could have the best trip ever. There are lush hotels, gorgeous gardens, sweet 1st class trains, delicious food and really friendly people (yes, a lot of people). It is a peaceful country where the population endures constant hardship without resorting to theft, crime or violence. It is unequivocally safe. Just stay off the roads.

Riding Indian Trains

2008-04-26T00:08:00.000+03:00

The Indian rail network is impressive in many ways. Covering a wide expanse, quite inexpensive and always heavily booked, coaches vary from 1st class with air-con, to 2nd class with open windows, to the utterly chaotic, overly stuffed and unbearable 3rd class. Here are some tips:

Don't try to sit on the roof of the train: those were the trains you saw in the movie 'Gandhi'. Feel free to try it on the Indian buses though.

Reconsider your desire to see the 'real' India by traveling with 'real' Indians from really basic 2nd class. Think about it more when traveling 13 hours across the baking hot Rajasthani desert, with no air-con and all windows shut due to duststorms.

The world's largest employer, the Indian train system has 1.6million workers: apparently none are assigned to cleaning though. One game is to see how long you can ignore the dust, dirt, grime and old food remnants that coat most surfaces.

Train toilets: better not to go. Ever. In any class. Ever.

No matter how hard you wish, none of the trains will take you back to Canada. Really. I tried.

Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India

2008-04-25T23:28:00.006+03:00

No, that is not me in front of the Taj Mahal; not sure who it is really. After all, if you are going to visit the Taj, make sure your single-one-only-day in Agra is not Friday, when the mausoleum is closed. Oops.

Built in 1648 by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan for his wife, the Taj is an amazing example of Mughal style and ingenuity. Not to be confused with the Mongols (yurts plonked on the grassy steppe of Mongolia), the Persian-speaking Islamic Mughals were Afghanistan's greatest export, conquering India with impressive armies, architecture, scientific knowledge and progressive rule. Agra is full of cool Mughal sites like the massive Red Fort and other white marbled dome mausoleums. Definitely the tourist jewel of India and a true wonder of the world, the Taj will retain its mysterious wonder for me.

Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India

2008-04-23T22:11:00.005+02:00

Site of the especially sacred Ganges River, Hindus from all over India, Nepal and other parts of the world make pilgrimages to Varanasi to worship or spend their final days before death and cremation. Family members bring the recently deceased for a sombre riverside ceremony on the steps of the 'ghats'.

Why is it hard to travel in India? Well, Varanasi sums it up nicely. The city is awful. Full of garbage, the dusty streets are a chaotic mess of honking cars, tuktuks and motorcycles. Dodging these plus all the bicycles, people and large-horned cows is harrowing. Add cow dung, human waste, standing puddles of putrid water, narrow alleyways, swarms of flies, beggars, touts, hawkers and the hot hot sun: it is fascinatingly unbearable. Walking anywhere is so unpleasant. Frequent power cuts mean aircon is seldom available, making the already-mediocre hotels even less inviting. It is a formula common throughout north India.

Dhaka, Bangladesh II

2008-04-20T03:18:00.006+02:00

Life for most Bangladeshis is seriously tough and downtown Dhaka shows it all. The buildings are worn, the streets are clogged with traffic and rickshaws; everywhere people try to eke out a basic living. A brief trip on the Buriganga River offers a wide enough glimpse: the water is opaque and virtually black from chemical and human pollution. A huge, dusty produce market flourishes on one side while, nearby, shipyard workers hammer away rust, re-paint and weld the aging metal on a flotilla of ships. As boats and ferries criss-cross the river, locals swim and wash near the shoreline.

Dhaka, Bangladesh

2008-04-17T02:53:00.000+02:00

It was not what I expected. On our first night in Dhaka, we ate Ferrero Rocher ice cream, had a delicious Bangla meal, swam in a lovely pool and ended the night at a decadent house party complete with an outdoor dance floor and a lush bar. Thanks to a university friend who is now in the diplomatic corps, we were spoiled rotten and we were able to see much of Dhaka while enjoying all the comforts of home (and more). Cheers Kilmeny and Darren.

Darjeeling, West Bengal, India

2008-04-15T01:40:00.003+02:00

At 2400m, this cold and rainy town is famous for its tea plantations, spectacular views and as a gateway to Sikkim and the eastern Himalayas. Tenzing Norquay, the Nepali Sherpa who first conquered Everest, sought climbing work at the Planter's Club here. (“Sherpa”, by the way, refers to an ethnic group not an occupation.) Built on a steep slope, Darjeeling is an odd mix of local and foreign tourists, hotels and posh private schools. Unfortunately, it is still full of garbage, open sewers, stray dogs, nasty smells and lousy roads. We had little luck with the myriad of attractions: the vast panorama that stretches from Khangchendzonga (8598m), to Everest (8848), to Lhotse (8501) and Makalu (8475) was obscured by mist; the tea plantation was closed, while the tiger zoo, the Everest museum and alpine railway were all on strike. “Nothing works here. Nothing. Nothing in India.”, mused Miranda.

Kolkata, West Bengal, India

2008-04-12T02:27:00.000+02:00

India can both charm you and repulse you at the same time - but it is especially good at the latter. From the airport, we took a surreal late-night taxi ride to the centre: an old, decripid cab, a suicidal driver, a near collision with a huge dump truck and deserted streets save for the road crews boiling barrels of smoking tar. Kolkata is a sprawling city, full of shops, markets, offices, street vendors, food stalls, rickshaws and thick traffic. It is dingy and poor, full of garbage and squalor. It is hard working and heartbreaking but it is not the hell that many imagine. The city got a bad rap early on: “the black hole of Calcutta” refers to a 1756 rebellion. In 1971, a mass influx of Bangladeshi refugees and their disastrous starvation made headlines. Mother Theresa helped many here but she also heightened the city’s stigma. An amazing woman, her death in 1997 passed largely unnoticed as it coincided with Princess Diana’s funeral.

Vietnam and the Mekong

2008-04-10T01:35:00.000+02:00

The highlight of my return to south Vietnam was a tour of the Mekong Delta. Much of the country's fruit, vegetable and rice crops are grown here. It is an immense expanse of fertile farmland, punctuated by the mighty and muddy Mekong River, and criss-crossed by thousands of canals and inlets. Our group stayed with a local family, Be'em and Anh: a chance to experience remote rural life firsthand - yummy food, a star-filled sky, rice whiskey, a scary toilet and brilliant fireflies. Both young during the war, Anh recounted one awful memory: hiding with her sisters during a US operation in the area and emerging to find her grandmother's house purposely lit on fire.

Siem Reap, Cambodia

2008-04-06T13:42:00.004+02:00

Cambodia is home to Angkor, one of the world's most impressive ancient temple complexes. Once a sprawling stone city, the area was the centre of the great Khmer Empire; dozens of elaborate Hindu/Buddhist temples were built on this site from the 9th to 12th centuries. The best known structure is Angkor Wat, a massive temple surrounded by moat after moat after moat - complete with towering domes and fabulous inscribed carvings: its image appears on the national flag. Siem Reap is a great place to explore, even in the dizzying heat and blazing sun.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

2008-04-03T14:05:00.004+02:00

Cambodia is still recovering from its many wounds. Phnom Penh is a lively capital but problems abound: poverty, street kids, AIDS and crippled amputees to name a few. In the 70's, the country imploded under the genocidal strangle of the perverse Khmer Rouge and its psychopathic leader, Pol Pot. The KR instituted a bizarre reign of terror to establish an agrarian utopia: troops emptied the cities, sending people to farm land under the spiteful watch of rural peasants and child soldiers. Millions died of starvation, famine, ill-treatment and torture; mass executions occurred daily in the 'killing fields' - including young children and old grandparents. All educated, professional or middle class citizens, were branded traitors and hideously tortured in prison, where they falsely implicated neighbors, family and friends. The paranoid depravity of Pol Pot included frequent internal purges and the killing of his own followers.

Aquariums

2008-04-01T13:31:00.002+02:00

One of the stranger experiences in Indonesia is the pushy desire of local tourists to take photos together with you, no matter where or when. One late night, while waiting for a 1am flight, a giddy group of girls shook us awake, pulled us off our row of hard seats, stood us together, unfurled a tour banner and snapped a few shots. The reason, it seems to Lonely Planet, “is similar to why people tap on aquarium fish tanks – they want to be recognized by an exotic being and provoke some kind of reaction.” Such behavior has been uncomfortably common in all countries since: kids shout at you, strangers want to shake hands, people try to converse with their three words of English, and, of course, there is the constant staring and gawking and pointing – particularly bad in India and China. Charming? Sure, just without the charming part.

The Battle of Biak, Indonesia

2008-03-28T13:04:00.003+02:00

During WWII, the Allies fought horrendous battles against Japan, first to repel its invading forces and then to oust its barbarous army. Thousands of troops died in Hong Kong, Singapore, Burma, Indo-China, Indonesia, the Philippines and elsewhere. In 1944, MacArthur launched a massive, 4-pronged attack, including one of the war's largest amphibious operations with 80,000 troops storming Jayapura. The movie 'The Thin Red Line' details a similar battle for Guadalcanal in the Solomons nearby. In the war cemetery in Ambon, Indonesia, over 2000 Australian, British, Dutch, Indian and other troops are buried. Many died in combat; others were POWs, starved or beaten to death.

The gravestone for one 20-year old Australian simply reads:

He died that we might live.

Our son.

Indonesia

2008-03-24T12:48:00.004+02:00

Indonesia has almost 17,000 islands, big and small, and the contrasts here are profound: stunning coastline next to squalid, garbage-filled harbors, thick jungle and slash & burn farming, lovely people yet psychotic drivers and deeply corrupt politicians, gorgeous coral reefs and a burgeoning, impoverished population. The future of all the good things seems sadly uncertain.

Maluku, Indonesia

2008-03-23T12:40:00.005+02:00

Incredibly, the early 1600's were a time of intense colonial rivalry in the Indonesian archipelago. The Dutch and British were aggressively vying for a larger portion of the lucrative spice trade, like nutmeg production on the small, far-flung Moluccas: islands which are still difficult to reach today. After the Dutch ransacked the tiny British island of Pulau Rhun, the British finally swapped this worthless possession in 1667 for an equally useless Dutch island in North America, called Manhhattan. Quite a good deal after all.

Mt. Bromo, Indonesia

2008-03-20T14:36:00.002+02:00

My Grade 6 English teacher, Mrs. Butterfield, was a bit quacky. During Easter break, we had the "choice" to write a voluntary essay; most kids ignored the assignment but my father always insisted that any scholastic pursuit was very healthy. So, while most of the class was off playing Intellivision or building tree forts, I spent many hours researching and writing about the 1884 volcanic eruption of Indonesia's Krakatoa. When the big moment came, Krakatoa blew itself sky high, triggering the single biggest explosion the world had ever known. Ash turned day into night and blanketed a huge portion of the earth's surface. A 'new' Krakatoa eviscerated out of the sea where the former once was; it is still erupting today.

Indonesia has 129 active volcanoes but most are remote and involve hell bus rides and rough roads. John and I settled on visiting Mt. Bromo, a very picturesque peak with other conical craters nearby.

Gili Air, Lombok, Indonesia

2008-03-11T12:38:00.003+02:00

This is possibly the most idyllic place I have visited during my trip. Indonesian travel is never simple but this destination was well worth the crazy van ride, the motorcycle shuttle, many hours on a dreaded ferry, a speeding van soaked by monsoon rain, another van, and then a speedboat. The reef here teems with gorgeous tropical fish, and turtles are quite common. Almost everything was sublime: the diving, swimming, snorkeling, sunsets and the food. So good.

Legian Beach, Indonesia

2008-03-06T12:25:00.004+02:00

The southern beaches on the island of Bali are a fun, chaotic tourist spot with great surf, sticky weather and a jungle of restaurants, bars and shops. We landed smack in the middle of the 3-day Hindu Nyepi holiday which included burning devil effigies and a compulsory quiet day confined to our hotel and its pool. The second photo is the Bali bombing memorial, sandwiched between Billabong and Roxy stores.

New Zealand and Capt. Cook

2008-03-03T16:06:00.002+02:00

James Cook started life simply: the son of a poor Yorkshire farm laborer, he might have stayed unknown if he'd not gone to sea as a teenaged servant on a coal ship. With little education, he beame a naval officer and soon gained acclaim for his fine cartographic skills. His superb charts of North America earned him a promotion, his own ship (the ENDEAVOUR), and a daring voyage to Tahiti, New Zealand and Australia. There, he grounded on the Great Barrier Reef and escaped only by jettisoning gear, including the canon in the picture above. It is now in the Te Kapa museum in Wellington. During his career, Captain Cook "explored more of the earth's surface than anyone in history"; he was the first navigator to cross the Antarctic Circle and he charted vast areas of the Pacific while leading primarily scientific explorations. The latest Space Shuttle ENDEAVOUR is named in his honor, complete with the excess 'u'. Go figure.

New Zealand (1)

2008-02-28T08:55:00.002+02:00

New Zealand is a lovely country, with all the comforts and convenience of home. I was lucky enough to be joined by Miranda and we spent most of the trip with Chris & Cinthia and their sons, Sam and Tristan. With a posh rented car, we filled the boot with camping gear and drove a 4500km circuit around both islands. Highlights included beautiful beaches and coastline, great hikes, a super kayaking trip, the Cadbury chocolate factory, star-filled nights, crashing surf, glaciers, rugby, wine, passion fruit ice cream, volcanoes, fresh fruit, and the best picnic lunches with avocado, cheese, tomato, and lemon-pepper tuna sandwiches (usually balanced on the dashboard).

New Zealand (2)

2008-02-27T09:06:00.001+02:00

About 1300mm of rain falls in Vancouver annually, 2500mm in North Vancouver, and about 11300mm in Kauai. Parts of New Zealand see 5000mm and we, apparently, experienced much of that first hand. Other detractions arose too: prices are high and the environment is certainly not perfect. It has been ravaged in the past: 31 of 39 flightless NZ birds are now extinct, including the giant, ostrich-like Ewa that the Maoris wiped out. The current campaign to eradicate possums (they eat too much forest grass) seems odd next to the millions of acres cleared for the constantly munching sheep. A better crusade would be against the horribly ravenous sandfly: a tiny, ever-present pest with a nasty bite which ruins many outdoor occasions. Still, not a bad country overall. Just wait ‘til India.

New Zealand

2008-02-20T15:50:00.000+02:00

An astonishing 66% of New Zealand men, aged 18-45, served in the forces during WWII. Cenotaphs, memorials, cairns and plaques dot the cities and towns throughout the country. The one above has an inscription from Rudyard Kipling:

From little towns in a far land we came,
To save our honour and a world aflame.
By little towns in a far land we sleep;
And trust that world we won for you to keep.

Sydney, Australia

2008-02-06T15:41:00.003+02:00

Picture, if you will, an older Toyota van abandoned in traffic, its stubby front-end that much more stunted, one turnlight hanging by a wire, a layer of shattered glass sprinkled on the street. This was my taxi from the airport until stupid driving and a rain soaked road sent us careening into another van. And people always warn me about the 'unsafe' Third World. It’s a mental image, too, because my constant Canon companion mysteriously disappeared earlier that day along with 2 weeks worth of photos. My first day in Australia brought little joy. However, the sun soon appeared and the city revealed some of its glory: lovely parks, architecture, museums and a stunning waterfront. I was especially lucky to be spoiled by my cousins, the MacIldowie clan, and to see Steve and Lili again.

Hong Kong

2008-02-01T15:28:00.000+02:00

In the old days of steamships and passenger liners, my Scottish grandfather sailed as chief engineer on the freighters between the UK, South Africa and Asia. After one trip to Hong Kong, he returned with a large, beautifully carved wooden chest which remains a prized piece in the family. On my first trip to Hong Kong, I found little trace of that historical character: no fantail junks, no floating markets, no back-alley artisans. Hong Kong is a frenetic, modern metropolis where 'new' constantly replaces 'old'. There is little room for nostalgia or heritage in such an economic powerhouse. I was lucky enough to see the sites with two navy friends who are long time HK residents. Darren and Jay spoiled me with great tours of the island and fun meals together. Despite lousy rain and cold weather, Hong Kong and Macau were a fascinating stop-over.

Vancouver

2008-01-25T14:59:00.005+02:00

Rain. Cold. Dark. Rain. Snow. Vancouver has a predictable pattern in January. Back for a brief work stint that included a Whistler visit, all went well.

London Fly-by

2008-01-11T14:36:00.004+02:00

I am very lucky to have great friends living in different places. On my way back to Vancouver for a brief work stint, I crashed at Ken's place just outside London. Landing here was a crazy departure from the sun, beaches and food of Vietnam but the generous hospitality was second to none. A bottle of wine and many stories later, I was asleep in the nicest bed since Penang. Cheers Ken.

Ho Chi Minh City

2008-01-10T14:25:00.007+02:00

I arrived in Ho Chi Minh City a little before dawn, just as the city was prepping for another day. Walking the streets near the train station was an inspiring introduction to the daily rituals of a unique part of the world. Merchants, mainly women, were getting organized early. The variety of fruit and veggies was impressive while fish and meat vendors, ice sellers, banana carts and heavily loaded scooters were all part of the scene. My curiosity brought plenty of smiles, chatter and laughter. Before taking a motorbike taxi to the airport, I had coffee with some of the drivers: it cost $0.25 for a deliciously strong cup.

Nha Trang, Vietnam

2008-01-09T14:22:00.000+02:00

The sun finally appears. After 10 days of mostly rain, cloud and cold, I arrived in the brilliant sunshine of the coastal city of Nha Trang. With a super beach, clean streets, tropical fruit, good beer, nice Norwegians and a fun nightlife, this is an uncrowded haven fill of inexpensive hotels and restaurants. Visit fast before it gets ruined.

Hoi An, Vietnam

2008-01-08T14:18:00.002+02:00

In the late 70's, I remember the TV news footage of Vietnamese refugees but I never understood what it was all about: many fled Vietnam but why? Simply put, after the North Vietnamese victory, many unpleasant 'revolutionary' policies were ruthlessly instituted. Persecution of southerners and especially the ethnic Chinese led to a mass exodus in overcrowded and dangerous boats, crossing the South China Sea to the Philippines. Countless boats sank and countless died. The beach pictured below at Cua Dai, near Hoi An, was one such launching point for the desperate. Now its filled with sunseekers - and hawkers selling Cokes.

My Lai

2008-01-07T14:08:00.004+02:00

In 1989, during one PoliSci class, Prof. Don Munton asked if any of us had heard of My Lai. I hadn’t but some had. I remember feeling so ignorant. In March 1968, My Lai (pronounced 'me lie') was part of a coastal farming community in central south Vietnam. Thought to be infiltrated by Viet Cong, the area was designated a free-strike zone for US forces. On March 16th, one US Army company landed to search for VC. Over the next 4 hours, the troops systematically destroyed everything and everyone in sight. About 150 unarmed villagers were herded into the ditch, pictured below, and machine gunned. Meeting no resistance, soldiers continued to shoot and bayonet villagers. Two little boys, both wounded, the elder shielding the younger, were summarily executed. All huts and houses were burned and all farm animals destroyed. In all, 504 villagers were massacred: including 182 women (17 were pregnant), 173 children and 37 men over age 60. Four girls or women were raped or gang raped.

On the modern day site, one of the destroyed villages has been re-created. It is a terribly sad place. While there, I met 83-year old Hathi Quy, a rare survivor of the massacre who now helps tend the grounds. Unfortunately, My Lai is not that easy to visit and it is not part of the usual tourist circuit.

Still, such horror is far from over: witness the recent US massacre in Haditha, Iraq.

Kon Tum and the Highlands of Vietnam

2008-01-05T13:46:00.007+02:00

Throwing a little too much caution to the wind, I rented a motorbike for a 3-day road trip through the lowlands, mountains, villages and the western city of Kon Tum. Everywhere I went, I met genuinely friendly and wonderfully curious people. The smiles and waves were endless. From backroads to main highways the scenery varied from rice paddies to cassava farms, to alpine forests and river valleys. I even found the old US combat air strip at Phuong Hoang near Duk To. The Champa temples at My Son were sublime; tourists are ferried to the site in old US Marine Corps jeeps. I did use up all of my nine lives though: the traffic here can be horrendously chaotic and it is always the largest vehicles that win. I was forced off the road a number of times; having to drive in the rain and the dark didn't help. Time to launder my karma.

Hue, Khe Sanh and the DMZ

2008-01-04T13:38:00.001+02:00

The ancient city of Hue is the 'cultural heart' of Vietnam with an ancient and impressive citadel and palace and a collection of royal tombs lining the Song River. If you think of Vietnam as shaped like a dog bone, then the divide between north and south was about ½ way up, along the Ben Hai river. Hue was just south of the border and in early 1968, it got hammered. The North Vietnamese occupied the city for over 3 weeks: the street combat, firefights, bombing and rocket exchange were brutal and highly destructive. During the occupation, over 2500 merchants, civil servants, priests, monks and intellectuals were murdered by northern troops. West of Hue, in the highlands near one branch of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the Khe Sanh Combat Base came under a viscious 75-day siege. These two battles were some of the few that were followed closely 'back home' - and that people remembered. I toured both sites but time has erased most of obvious scars. The visitors book at Khe Sanh captured fascinating comments from returning vets from both sides.

The Vietnam War

2008-01-03T13:11:00.008+02:00

In the early 60's South Vietnam was led by the barbaric president, Ngo Dinh Diem. His brutal repression led to the famous self-immolation of Buddhist monk Thich Quang Duc in the streets of Saigon. Ho Chi Minh was determined to liberate the south of Diem and unite the country, free from outside interference. The US responded and, from 1965 to 1973, the war in Vietnam became one of the most brutal and terrifying conflicts ever. It was to be an indiscriminant total war: the full force, resources and might of the US military were made available to win at all costs. The scale of destruction was immense, the tactics unrelenting and the technology horrific: napalm, agent orange, CS gas, mines, cluster bombs, mortars, rockets, flame throwers, grenades, gunships, and so on. It spawned many contradictions: 'search and destroy' missions, which were really 'destroy then search', and the famous paradox “we had to destroy the village in order to save it.” Michael Herr's powerful book “Dispatches” captures the horror of many combat operations and it’s only 300 pages.

Throughout the country there are many museums, monuments and war relics scattered about. The sheer number of aging American helicopters is impressive. The "Hanoi Hilton" prison is infamous while the tunnels of Vinh Moc are amazing: a whole village survived deep underground. Still, I never quite sensed that the new generation of Vietnamese, understand just exactly what their parents and grandparents endured.

New Year's Eve in Hue, Vietnam

2008-01-01T12:48:00.006+02:00

I celebrated New Year's with some great guys that I met on the train from Hanoi. At the end of the night, we passed crowds of young Vietnamese all celebrating too: they were handing out flowers and wishing us a Happy New Year in their best English. It was a good time.

Hanoi, Vietnam

2007-12-29T17:22:00.002+02:00

Damn, this is one crazy, frenetic city. Within an hour of arriving in Hanoi, a dozen scooters almost hit me and a zillion people tried to sell me a tour, a pedi-cab ride or a selection of photocopied best-sellers. Then, a lady with bright red lipstick and about my mom's age tried to get me on the back of her scooter and home for a massage. So gross. An hour later, I saw an old woman get hit by a motorcycle. Nasty.

The communists certainly won the war against America but Hanoi now is gripped with a rapacious appetite for capitalism. There are still city banners that celebrate the victory but US dollars are now the currency of choice, Vietnam Airlines flies to New York and foreigners are warmly welcomed. I didn't see much of the city before I escaped to the coast but at night it was tough to navigate: dark and narrow streets filled with people, traffic, hawker stands, food stalls and with nowhere to walk. Plus the weather was very sucky.
I escaped on a two-day tour to Halong Bay where very picturesque limestone towers ('karsts') shoot up from the ocean floor. There are nearly 2000 islands here, all covered in dense greenery. It is a lovely place but it's also crowded with visitors and a corresponding number of cruising 'junks'. The tour was fun but we only saw a small area; the other 1990+ islands remain unobserved. Driving to the coast was an experience as well: rice paddies, muddy fields, polluted towns, highly impatient traffic and scooters completely overloaded with chickens, pigs, onions and so on. North Vietnam is still severely poor.

The Secret War: Laos

2007-12-26T10:57:00.002+02:00

In 1962, JFK gave an inspirational speech at Rice University, outlining his administration's highly ambitious plan to send a man to the moon by the end of the decade. Delivered with eloquence and humor, his speech expressed the need for peaceful exploration under the benevolent leadership of the United States. That same year, an agreement was signed to diffuse the growing tension in Laos. Communism was considered a huge threat to the US and any country falling under communist rule was another unfriendly fallen 'domino'. While Kennedy removed the US troops, the N. Vietnamese ignored the accord and continued to use Laos as a supply route for the growing Viet Cong insurgency in the South. The US responded by embedding 'civilian' US air force pilots, known as ''ravens”: they trained Lao pilots and flew spotting missions, marking communist targets for Lao bomber pilots. Over 400 landing sites or “lima sites” were built around the country; the picture below is LS 27 in Vang Vieng. It is now used to park buses.

The US ravens flew small propeller plans and suffered extremely high casualties. The movie “Rescue Dawn” is about one downed pilot. The US soon intensified their campaign and relentlessly bombed eastern Laos, even using massive B-52 bombers out of Guam and Thailand. By war's end in 1973, the secret air force had dropped an average of one planeload of bombs every eight minutes, 24 hours a day, for nine years, making Laos the most heavily bombed nation, on a per capita basis, in the history of warfare.

Christmas Day in Laos

2007-12-25T10:18:00.003+02:00

For all the culture of Luang Prabang, Laos is also home to what must be one of the most debaucherous and fun towns in all of Asia: Vang Vieng. Overlooked by tall limestone karsts and forested hills, VV lies on the Nam Song river where visitors, kitted out with big inner tubes, float downstream, enjoying the scenery and the riverfront bamboo bars. Christmas Day here was unforgettable. Each bar has its own creative zip line, bungy swing or diving platform, some at least 20' high. Each provide an adrenaline rush and a hilarious thrill, and everyone's liquid courage grows with each emptied Beerlao. I was lucky to spend the day with an amazing group of travellers from Canada, Holland, Israel, and the UK. Like all days in VV, this one ended at one of the local outdoor nightclubs on the Island next to the river. Highly recommended.

Muang Ngoi, Laos

2007-12-20T10:03:00.004+02:00

A trip up the Nam Ou river was one of many highlights of Laos although the long bus trip to the river crossing was brutal on the bum. Another hour by boat is the little riverside village of Muang Ngoi, a favorite stop for backpackers looking to experience local village life. We camped out here for 3 nights, playing on the river, hiking into the backcountry padi fields and exploring caves. Home cooked food was available from all the straw guesthouses but our Mama spiced each evening up with a steady supply of rice wine shots. Cheers to that.

Luang Prabang, Laos

2007-12-16T09:18:00.005+02:00

Luang Prabang is a lovely, cultured, quasi-French town in the heart of Laos. Built on the banks of the Mekong and once the ancient capital, LP now serves up chocolate croissants, fruit shakes, great Lao food and classic colonial architecture. Nearby, there is a super waterfall complete with a local tiger and sun bears. Diving into the cool swimming holes is great fun.

Now a seemingly sedate country, Laos was once a rowdy place, known for an 'anything goes' tourist scene. Narcotics, weapons and other vices were common. Oddly, a midnight curfew is in place for all: you have to be back at your guesthouse and inside its gates by this time. The curfew sharply contrasts with the ever present access to cheap beer and less legal substances.

Laos and the Mekong River

2007-12-14T15:14:00.002+02:00

I had no idea what to expect in Laos. I had heard good reports: a much subdued tourist scene, rural, less developed and less traveled. Thailand was far too busy for me; I wanted an escape. The Mekong River was the start: it rises in China and partially forms the Thai-Lao border in the north of both countries. Here, you can take a two-day 'slow boat' downstream to the old Lao capital city of Luang Prabang. The river disappointed: I had imagined a shoreline crowded with jungle and impenetrable forest, a place where Col. Kurtz could get lost - a "Heart of Darkness" kinda place. Not so much. The river was brown with mud and the shore was dotted with occasional villages and accompanying cultivation. Still, it was a nice trip and I met some great travellers along the way.

Bangkok and the Canals

2007-12-10T14:52:00.000+02:00

One of the big thrills of Bangkok is taking a ride on a 'khlong', a passenger boat, used to transport commuters to work using the old canal system. The boats cut through the water at top speed, leaving a deep wake to slap against the canal walls and bounce off any on-coming boats. Carrying 50 seated passengers and another 30 standing during peak hours, the boats beat any other public transport for a rapid commute.

The canal water is not pretty: it is grey and highly polluted and passengers can raise a gunwale tarp to avoid any splashing. The drivers boom-bitch down the canals with superb skill. Every so often, they have to lower the large overhead canopy to clear a bridge or a few pipelines but they seldom slow to do this. There are obviously no rules about minimizing wake or passing other boats. It's go, go, go and it's a thrill. There are two crew per khlong; they wear polo-style helmets, walk up and down the gunwales collecting fares, and instinctively duck when a bridge nears. At each stop, they leap onto the dock and lassoo the closest bollard, capping the last bit of boat momentum. Such an option would never exist in the West. We are far too prim, proper and safety conscious.

Thailand - Bangkok

2007-12-09T18:09:00.000+02:00

Wow, this is one crazy city. Nice but crazy. I arrrived early one morning and was surprised by many sights. One neighborhood is a complete backpacker hang-out, with restaurants packed to the rafters with white faces. The city is a busy, busy metropolis with quaint neighborhoods mixed with canals, a big river, skyscrappers and shopping malls. The 'street' food available is amazing: noodles, curries, pastries, fruit shakes, coffee. Anything and everything cooked up right in front of you, oh so fresh and yummy.

Bangkok seems pre-occupied with business and making deals. An evening trip to the top of the very posh Banyan Tree Hotel provides a 360 roof-top view of a twinkling city, full of glass buildings and pulsing with life. This is still a party town though and there is no shortage of bars and clubs. The seedier side is not as prominent any more but you can still find various oddities such as ping-pong shows (don't ask). There is also a large number of "lady-boys": transvestites all dolled up and craving attention. Funny.

Shopping can be a major pre-occupation here. All the popular brands are copied and sold in stores and malls. Polo, Adidas, Puma, Lacoste, Fred Perry, etc. Everything is cheap and plentiful; there is definitely no effort to crackdown on this market.

Thailand - The South

2007-12-06T18:03:00.000+02:00

One winter, years ago, I was sitting in the Cypress Mountain pub after a night of snowboarding, peering up at the Lonely Planet episode on TV: there was Justine Shapiro (yum) trekking through the most lusciously green landscape and passing by beautiful beaches with clear azur water. She was in Thailand. Figuring out where to go is not so easy though. Ko Chang, Ko Samui, Ko Phi Phi, Ko Tao, Koh Samet, Ko Pha Ngan - the options are some konfusing. There are dozens of beautiful places to choose and the world visits them all. The country is a must-see for every 20-something Vancouverite. I'm arriving a little late. Apparently, its also a must-see for every other nationality on the planet. The country is one, majorly over-touristed destination.

I settled on visiting Ko Lipeh, a quieter island in the south-west. The Thai people are incredibly friendly; they are renowned for their wide, genuine smiles and are very welcoming. Plus the food is great - I could eat pad thai every day - and the beaches were super. Still, this a very coupled-up country; many European couples hang out, chain smoking and doing their own thing. Not the friendliest traveling community but still fun.

Good Fortune

2007-12-04T16:25:00.000+02:00

In one region of India, when a daugther is born the parents consider it a blessing from God and a wonderful omen. The expression used is "Lakshmi is born." Lakshmi is the goddess of prosperity.

So congratulations to friends in Vancouver, Serina & Charlie and Annette & Dave, on the birth of their daughters. And big best wishes to Alanah and Janet who are both expecting.

Malaysia

2007-11-28T16:49:00.000+02:00

On the flight to Kuala Lumpur, the "Simpson's Movie" was playing on my little seat-back screen. At one point in the movie Monty Burns looks set to close a lucrative deal to which he comments: "Ahhh, finally the rich, white guy wins one, eh?" Surrounded by Malaysians and various other Asian nationalities, I'm not sure they found it as funny as me.

Landing in Kuala Lumpur (KL) is like being on a different continent which, I guess, makes a lot of sense. The city is fantastic: superb public transport (monorails, light rail, buses), lovely tropical-tree-lined streets, and yummy Malay, 'Chinese' and Indian food. All over the city, roadside stands sell cheap and delicious noodle, rice and curry dishes. There are Starbucks cafes and shopping malls and electronics galore and quaint historical boroughs - "Little India" and "Chinatown" with some colonial architecture mixed in. It is a pleasant city but not the most exciting place and it lacks touristy things to do. And the beer is just way too expensive. Bummer.

The Petronas Towers, however, are absolutely superb. Built by the Malaysian national oil company, these twin towers, bridged by a pedestrian skyway, are beautiful during the day and especially picturesque at night when they are flooded in different shades of light from various directions. A gaggle of other tourists and me - we couldn't stop taking photos.

The Petronas Towers

Having been lucky enough to meet a great group of travelers in Egypt, I had the chance to catch up with Hank and Carol in Penang. Originally from Edmonton, Carol and Hank spend winters on the Island of Penang, on Malaysia's west coast. My stay with them was phenomenal and their hospitality was so generous and warm. I slept so well for the first time in months, swam countless laps in their pool and got to enjoy two nights of the local jazz festival. Meeting their friends, Sonny and Sally, a local Malaysian couple was another highlight. Superb.

Sonny, Sally, Carol and Hank.

On my way to Penang I stopped off in the highlands region where tea plantations stretch to the horizon. It reminded me of the hill stations in Sri Lanka: lush green growth, rolling hills, mist, dew and some jungle to boot. This is a very popular area in the hot season when the coast become unbearably hot.

Tea plantation in the Malaysian highlands.